Makeup Contouring Techniques

Contouring techniques that enable the artist to create the illusion of well-defined features and minimize less desirable ones. These techniques are based on size and proportion and are adaptable to be used in any medium. Contouring is the deepening of a specific feature. The goal with contouring is to make the area appear to be receding.

[bold_title]Contouring The Face[/bold_title]

When selecting the section to contour place a brush handle or your index finger  a  on the side of the face where the cheekbone meets the ear to feel for the indentation. This is where the contour goes…just beneath blush. Contour supports the blush.

1. The contour should look like a shadow on the face. Choose a medium to dark neutral brown color that is 2 or 3 times darker then the skin tone. The tone should not be to warm (red) or to cool (green). Use a neutral shade like beige or brown. Once applied to the particular skin tone you should check the color payoff to ensure that you are creating a soft shadow effect. Remember contour is to enhance bone structure and should only be used in “color” to create an intentional result.

2. Using the S135 Contour Stylist Brush, start at the hairline just below the cheekbone, adding the contour color toward the nose and tapering off near the middle of the apple of the cheek. Please note:A good rule is to apply contour color no further then the center of the eye and no lower than the top lip.

3. Adding Blush Coloration – Now that the bone structure has been enhanced. Add color and shape, with a chosen blush tone, using the S130 Round Blush Brush. The application will start with a dash (brush stroke) from the edge of the hairline near the ear toward the apple of the cheek slightly higher then the contour color added previously.

4. Apply blush on the apple to complete this step. You may ask your client to smile slightly to enhance their individual bone structure.

5. Repeat this action until the desired depth of color is achieved.

[bold_title]Contouring the Nose[/bold_title]

Consider that the nose is viewed from the sides and the front so there is very little room for error. 

1. Start with a neutral beige color like MAC Taupe (MAC Pro only).

2. Apply an extremely fine layer of shadow using the S175 The Eye Contour   to create a seamless shadow pattern on either side of the nose near the inner corner on the eye socket.  Continuing the brush stroke upward to the eye’s socket to render a more streamlined organic feature that delicately connects the eye socket and the nose.

3. Sweep the shadow downward on the side of the nose lengthwise about 3/4 of the way down tapering off toward the tip of the nose.

So please be adaptable with this application. Less is more!

[bold_title]Contouring The Eyes [/bold_title]

Eye Contour: Eye contour is the most common form of this technique used. It may be referred to as the “crease” color.
The purpose is to define the structure of the eye adding depth.

1. Using the S175 The Eye Contour, start the contouring using a taupe shade that is slightly darker then the skin tone.

2. Remember this is the first step in the building process of creating a three-dimensional effect. You will work with a neutral beige color like MAC Taupe. Start by using very little shadow and then increasing as you build to the desired effect.

3. Apply the color in a broad sweeping motion from the outer corner of the eye socket toward the inner corner. Using multiple passes to create depth and blending.

4. Repeat process with a deeper color to further enhance the contour and/or coloration of the eye shadow design.

5. Finish with brow color and eyeliner using the D300 Stylist Eyeliner Brush. 

Recommenced Makeup Brushes for this application:

S130 Round Blush Brush

S135 Contour Stylist Brush

S175 The Eye Contour

D300 Stylist Eyeliner