Color choice is the single most important feature of makeup artistry
Infinite Makeup
Our motivation at Cozzette is a strong foundation, color theory model, which is the starting point in all our product creation. The following journey into color theory will enable you to recognize color in makeup and implement best color choices in your makeup artistry.
Our foundation Infinite Makeup was designed using color theory . The formula has Golden and Cool shades and are alphanumerically coded for easy color matching.
Numbers represent the color level and Letters represent the shade series (example: C1= Cool 1). Once the process is complete the formulation prototype is then put to the ultimate test of the Hi-Def camera producing a makeup that minimizes texture and looks like perfect skin.
Golden (Neutral) colors are used to match skin tones or neutralize cool colorations under the eye, beard coloration, and the cool color in a tattoo.
Cool (Cool) colors are used to neutralize redness in the complexion, warm colors in a tattoo or red/violet tones around the eyes.
Cool skin tones are often mistaken for warm tones because they can be masked by redness across the cheeks and nose.
Color Theories
HUE… an individual color on the color wheel. Hues are different wavelengths and each a separate entity. It identifies a color by name, i.e.; red, blue, yellow.
VALUE… The brightness (lightness or darkness of a color achieved by adding white or black to a selected color).
SATURATION… the relative intensity of each color, i.e.; a fully saturated blue is bright and vivid; a dull grayed blue is considered de-saturated.
COLOR TEMPERATURE depends on the amount of the cool or warm factor that a color possesses. Any color can be considered warmer or cooler in relation to another color. For example, Carmine and Tomato lipsticks are both considered red. Tomato is warm with more orange; Carmine is considered cool with more blue.
COOL – These colors are found near the blue radius of the wheel; colors with a blue tone. The sky, sea and ice are thought of as cool.
WARM – These colors are found near the orange radius of the color wheel, the combination of red and yellow. The sun and fire are thought of as warm.
RELATIVITY AND TEMPERATURE are important tools in evaluating your client. The skin tone may be a pale/cool olive and the hair a warm red. From here you can generate color schemes, creating color harmony or color contrast.
Color has varying degrees of pigmentation so the artist should be aware of the differences prior to color mixing. Blue is the strongest pigment followed by red, then yellow (the weakest.)
One drop of blue has three times more pigment than yellow and two times more pigment than red. The numbers in the following formulas represent numbers of drops.
Color Traditions
COLOR COMBINATIONS
MONOCHROMATIC • Color scheme using one color and variations of the same color. Apply value principles.
ANALOGOUS • Using any shades, tints or tones of colors that lie adjacent to each other on the wheel
DIRECT COMPLIMENTARY • A complimentary combination consists of two colors directly opposite each other on the color wheel. Always use a primary-secondary or intermediate-to-intermediate combination. This combination has dual functions. Example: blue eyes and a peachy (yellow/orange) shadow accents.
SPLIT COMPLIMENTARY • High contrast. Key color plus two colors directly on either side of the complementary color. Example: green eyes and a red/violet shadow, red/orange accents.
NEUTRAL COLOR • Can be used within any color scheme as in contour and highlight. A color that then becomes a non-color; i.e., beige, white, black and grey etc.
TERTIARY COLORS = ALL OTHER COLORS
The majority of cosmetic colors are tertiary colors. We match them as close to the color wheel destination as possible. Skin colors are also tertiary colors.
Color and Light
Subdued natural or low lighting situations create a distortion of color. Under these circumstances light colors need more intensity and dark colors less.
Color and Distance
Distance causes receding (cool) colors to “black out”. Consequently lighter values of color should be employed for greater emphasis.
Freckle Coloration on the skin
Freckles can be multifaceted in color. Some are yellow/green and others yellow/orange. Some complexions have both. Use color theory techniques to neutralize the freckles prior to matching the skin tone. Be careful not to use olive toned foundations on Y/G freckles, which will accentuate the green. On the other hand individuals with Y/O freckles can’t afford Y/O foundation. Use direct complimentary color scheme to neutralize.
Wishing you the highest of success,
Roque Cozzette
